Sushi Ryujiro by Michelin-starred Ryujiro Nakamura returns with a new home at Capitol Kempinski
The Singapore outpost of Tokyo’s Sushi Ryujiro works with a “fish tailor” to source rare and prized ingredients that can’t be obtained through conventional channels.
The new Sushi Ryujiro welcomes guests with a bespoke sculpture inspired by the movement of dragons, fishes and pine trees. (Photo: Sushi Ryujiro)
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After closing its doors at Shaw Centre early this year, Sushi Ryujiro is making a confident comeback with new business partnership and a restaurant designed entirely from scratch at The Capitol Kempinski Hotel.
From July 15, diners in Singapore will get to enjoy the same ingredients and philosophy that propelled Sushi Ryujiro Tokyo to its first Michelin star in 2021. The loyal regulars amassed during its two-year run here have already started sending gifts.
Chef Ryujiro Nakamura “wasn’t simply looking for another restaurant location”, he told CNA Luxury. “I was looking for a place that could support the kind of experience I wanted to create.” He was primarily drawn to the space in the heart of the city “within one of Singapore’s most iconic heritage landmarks. There is a sense of history and timelessness about The Capitol that resonates with the philosophy of Sushi Ryujiro.”
“The space also gave us the opportunity to design the restaurant around the guest experience from the very beginning, rather than adapting an existing concept. For me, sushi is not only about what is served at the counter. The environment, the pace of the meal and the way guests are welcomed are all part of the experience. This location has allowed us to bring those elements together in a way that reflects what Sushi Ryujiro truly stands for,” he said.
The new 10-seat sushiya (with an additional private room opening in September) boasts Tsuchikabe walls made from a traditional blend of clay and rice straw, a hinoki wood counter and antique tableware. At the entrance is a sprawling bespoke, handmade paper installation by Barcelona-based art studio Wanda Barcelona inspired by the movements of dragons, fish and Japanese pine trees. Every element was carefully overseen by Nakamura.
While he himself won’t be stationed here, executive chef Naruki Ikeda makes sure the experience is as it should be. Thanks to his fluency in English, he’s able to engagingly explain the provenance of the ingredients and the cooking techniques, share interesting stories about fish species, and even tell you how he accidentally stumbled into restaurants after being rejected for a job at 7-Eleven at age 15.
He can tell you, for example, why he makes his abalone liver sauce with scorched rice porridge; or how he uses spring onion ground into a fragrant paste to complement the taste of aji or horse mackerel from Kyoto.
Top-quality and rare ingredients sourced directly from fishermen take centre stage here, thanks to years of relationship-building all over Japan. For example, extremely rare konoko or sea cucumber innards from Awaji are embedded within a chawanmushi for an elegant texture and flavour; somen made from arrowroot is paired with premium seasonal jyunsai or water shield from Akita prefecture; and tuna for the signature chutoro, akami and ootoro sushi progression is sourced via long-respected tuna specialist Yamayuki.
“It isn’t about which chef has the most money or who can pay the highest price,” Nakamura explained. “Many producers choose to reserve their finest ingredients for chefs they know and trust because they want those ingredients to be handled with the same care and respect with which they were produced. I believe Singapore diners appreciate that level of integrity and the stories behind every ingredient just as much as the ingredients themselves.”
He continued: “What I hope to bring to Singapore is access to ingredients and relationships with independent fishermen, specialist producers and seafood craftsmen across Japan that are not easily found through conventional sourcing channels. One example is a specialist seafood craftsman whom I often describe as a ‘fish tailor’. He helps us source ingredients that are simply impossible to obtain through conventional channels.”
Take the seasonal red uni from Fukui Prefecture, for instance. Completely natural and free from additives, it is exceptionally clean-tasting, with a very long finish. “Production is limited and much of it remains within Japan for domestic consumption. It isn’t something we can simply request whenever we want — it depends entirely on the season and what nature provides,” Nakamura explained.
“Whenever we are fortunate enough to receive it, it gives us the special opportunity to share an ingredient that is seldom available outside Japan with our diners in Singapore.”
He added: “Ultimately, I hope Sushi Ryujiro contributes something meaningful to Singapore’s dining scene. Singapore is one of the most discerning dining markets in the region. Diners here are sophisticated, well travelled and have a genuine appreciation for quality. They can recognise the difference when ingredients are exceptional, craftsmanship is genuine and every detail has been thoughtfully considered.
“With Sushi Ryujiro, I wanted to offer Singapore diners an omakase experience that reflects the same sourcing philosophy, craftsmanship and spirit of hospitality that define Sushi Ryujiro in Tokyo. It represents my most complete vision of what Edomae sushi can be, while remaining approachable and engaging for diners here.”
Sushi Ryujiro Singapore opens July 15 at The Capitol Kempinski Singapore, 15 Stamford Road 01-88, Singapore 178906.
Source: CNA/my
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