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These new fine jewellery collections in 2026 play on light, colour and nostalgia

Fine jewellery takes a bold turn this year with colourful Love bracelets by Cartier, Chanel No 5-inspired jewels, Tiffany & Co’s reimagined Bird on a Rock and more.

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From reworked house emblems and stackable rings to sculptural gold designs, the latest creations from these jewellers offer something for everyone.

There is no single theme to the season’s new fine jewellery. These nine launches span a broad range of styles, from graphic diamond designs and stackable rings to bold gold forms with vivid gemstone combinations. Some maisons revisit archival signatures, while others explore new proportions, colours and materials. Together, the pieces appeal to a range of tastes and personalities, from the understated to the expressive and unexpected.

THE GOLDEN NUMBER: CHANEL

Chanel revisits its most famous numeral with four additions to the Collection No 5 line. The number’s place in the house’s history was sealed in 1921 when Gabrielle Chanel selected the fifth fragrance sample presented by perfumer Ernest Beaux and named it No 5. Its graphic curves now define a necklace and three pairs of earrings in gold and diamonds.

The Extrait de No 5 necklace traces the numeral in Beige Gold, Chanel’s proprietary precious alloy. Introduced in 2015, it tempers gold’s yellow lustre with the softer warmth of beige, one of Gabrielle Chanel’s signature colours. A brilliant-cut diamond sits at the centre, while a diamond-set drop extends from the Y-shaped design like a trail of perfume. Five extension loops allow the necklace to be worn at different lengths.

Matching Extrait de No 5 stud earrings dress the lobes with the numeral featuring a bezel-set diamond within it and a pave-set drop on its side. Completing the quartet are two versions of the Eternal No 5 hoop earrings offered in Beige Gold or white gold. Their sculptural curves suggest the figure five and a drop of fragrance, with diamonds tracing the outline and a larger stone set in the middle.

BEADED BEAUTIES: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Van Cleef & Arpels enriches its Perlee collection with six new rings that pair diamonds and coloured gemstones with the maison’s signature golden beads. Launched in 2008, the collection draws on a motif that has appeared in its jewellery since the late 1940s. Following the five-row rings introduced in 2022, the new three-row format is slimmer and lends itself more readily to stacking and pairing with other Perlee pieces.

Beads of different sizes encircle the finger in a gentle graduation, with the largest set at the top of the ring and the smallest beneath it. Wearers can choose a diagonal ribbon of nine round diamonds set against yellow, rose or white gold. For a stronger note of colour, the other three Perlee couleurs rings pair blue sapphires or emeralds with yellow gold and rubies with rose gold.

The stones are held by a nail setting with rounded tips that mirror the surrounding beads. As each nail can secure up to three gems, the stones can be set close together in an uninterrupted line. Honeycomb openwork underneath allows more light to pass through, while repeated hand-finishing and polishing give every bead its characteristic gleam.

SOARING HIGH: TIFFANY & CO

Six decades after Jean Schlumberger first placed a diamond cockatoo atop a cabochon lapis lazuli, Tiffany & Co reimagines its iconic Bird on a Rock motif in two new forms. The figural bird pendant and matching earrings stay true to the original from 1965: hand-sculpted in yellow gold with textured wings drawn from Schlumberger’s 1950s Flame earrings. Engraved chevron detailing and hand-set diamonds, scattered in varying sizes across the body and head, give each piece a sense of movement. 

Meanwhile, the Bird on a Rock by Tiffany Wings line offers a more abstract interpretation, paring the bird down to a single wing. Each is formed from three feathers in alternating gold and platinum, reflecting Schlumberger’s penchant for mixing metals. On the platinum sections, diamonds are channel-set without prongs or beads to keep the silhouette clean. New additions to the Wings collection include a narrow necklace, ring, drop earrings, articulated bracelet, pendant and three metal-only rings in platinum or yellow or rose gold that showcase the contours of the wing and its distinctive silhouette.

IN FULL BLOOM: LOUIS VUITTON

The French maison welcomes a ring, earrings and pendant in white gold and diamonds to its Idylle Blossom fine jewellery collection. Introduced in 2012, the line is inspired by the Monogram Flower created in 1896 by Georges Vuitton, the founder’s son. In the new pieces, the flower’s tapered petals are sculpted and chased – a traditional technique in which small tools are used to press and shape the metal’s surface to create defined contours and texture without removing any material. Overlapping petals give the flower a sculptural form, while preserving its hallmark outline. Diamonds are set across the petals, with a single stone at the centre to draw the eye in.

FUN WITH DIAMONDS: GRAFF

Graff shows its more playful side with the new FouFou collection. Its name is loosely translated into French for “just a little bit eccentric”, which is fitting for rings designed to be worn alone or stacked in different combinations. Each one features a single centre diamond on a slim pave-set band in yellow or white gold.

The wide array of cuts gives the collection its character. Oval, emerald, cushion, radiant, pear, heart and round brilliant diamonds appear across the range, with some set horizontally or vertically. Stacked together, the different shapes and orientations create a deliberately varied arrangement: a pear-shaped stone can sit beside a round brilliant or a horizontal setting beside a vertical one.

White-diamond designs begin with centre stones of 0.2 carat. Among the yellow-diamond versions is a 0.55-carat pear-shaped fancy intense yellow diamond on a yellow-gold pave band. Wearers can mix cuts, diamond colours and metals, then change the arrangement from one day to the next. For a jeweller so closely associated with large, exceptional diamonds, Foufou offers a playful and more casual way to wear them.

GO FOR BOLD: POMELLATO

Gold takes centre stage in Pomellato’s Iconica collection, with broad, polished curves that give each jewel a sculptural presence. Four new additions – a bangle, ring, hoop earrings and pendant necklace – bring coloured gemstones to its voluptuous rose gold forms. Scattered across the precious metal in a seemingly random arrangement instead of neat rows, the stones provide flashes of colour and a good dose of eclecticism to the pieces.

The bangle boasts the richest mix of gems, with amethyst, blue topaz, tsavorite, garnet and tourmaline punctuating its smooth surface. The ring sees coloured stones across Iconica’s generous contours, while the hoop earrings give the familiar shape a more substantial look. Suspended from a fine chain, the pendant offers an understated way to wear the collection’s vivid colours.

AN ICON IN COLOUR: CARTIER

Cartier gives its emblematic Love bracelet a colourful update with six new models, marking what the house calls a new annual release for the collection going forward. Three are paved with pink sapphires, blue sapphires or tsavorite garnets. On each piece, 10 diamonds replace the signature screw motifs, which stand out against the uninterrupted sweep of colour.

The other three versions leave most of the gold visible, replacing the screw motifs with 10 coloured gemstones arranged in a gradient. Warmer yellow- and rose-gold bracelets combine pink and yellow sapphires, orange spessartite garnets, green tsavorites and amethysts, while the cool, white gold version brings together aquamarines, pink and blue sapphires, tanzanites and amethysts. Together with the fully paved models, they bring a broader colour palette to one of Cartier’s most distinctive designs.

LIGHT AND SHADOW: BOUCHERON

Onyx joins Boucheron’s Serpent Boheme collection for the first time, bringing an ultra-modern contrast to a jewellery line that was introduced in 1968. Inspired by an eclipse, the 12 designs move between the darkness of onyx and the shine of yellow gold.

On the shadow side, five pieces – a necklace, ring, earring, bracelet and watch – feature faceted onyx within the collection’s hallmark teardrop motif, which recalls a snake’s head. The black ornamental stone gives the designs a graphic quality, while pave diamonds on the double-motif bracelet and single earring add subtle sparkle. On the light side, a pendant, stud earrings and ring replace onyx entirely with highly polished yellow gold to evoke the sun.

Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne brings both sides together in four more pieces: an XXL bracelet and ring, pendant and brooch. Here, onyx and gold share each design, their contrasting surfaces giving the eclipse idea its clearest expression. 

THE ART OF CONTRAST: BVLGARI

The Roman jeweller’s latest exploration of colour centres on two Doppio Baccellato rings and three new Tubogas bracelets. One ring pairs golden citrine with blue topaz, while the other unites amethyst with green peridot. Such exuberant pairings have been central to Bvlgari’s jewellery since the 1950s, when the house moved beyond the convention of setting a single coloured stone alongside diamonds.

The voluminous rings take their name from baccellatura, the ribbed detailing that shapes their gold surfaces. Inspired by the fluting in classical Greek and Roman architecture, the rounded ridges add volume and draw light across the metal. Smooth cabochon-cut gemstones contrast against the textured gold, while the double structure positions the two stones opposite one another to give each pairing a strong presence on the hand.

The trio of Tubogas bracelets flaunt a more graphic look, with triangular forms set with rubellite, tanzanite or green tourmaline with flexible yellow or rose gold coils that wrap around the wrist. They join three Tubogas necklaces launched in 2024, extending Bvlgari’s exploration of colour through pieces that balance strong geometry with movement.

Source: CNA/sn

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