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Why Hermes wants to be taken seriously as a watchmaker

Hermes Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet explains how new mechanical watches, investment in movement-making expertise and a long-term manufacturing strategy are reshaping perceptions of the maison’s watchmaking.

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Allyson Klass

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Hermes has long enjoyed considerable cachet across Asia. Its watches, however, occupy a more complicated place – admired for their design, but not always regarded in the same league as those from established fine watchmaking houses. That perception is quietly changing.

At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the French maison unveiled a collection built around the theme of Mysterious Mechanisms, with three headline novelties exploring different ways of revealing the movement without compromising aesthetics. The Hermes H08 Squelette strips back the dial to showcase the new H1978 S automatic calibre beneath an architectural lattice inspired by urban metalwork. The Slim d’Hermes Squelette Lune pairs an openworked dial with the ultra-thin H1953 calibre and a double moon-phase display tracking the lunar cycle in both hemispheres. Most technically ambitious is the Arceau Samarcande, which conceals the H1927 self-winding minute repeater beneath a handcrafted Saint-Louis crystal dial, openworked in the shape of a horse’s head as a nod to the house’s equestrian heritage.

Behind the timepieces is one of Swiss watchmaking’s quiet powerhouses: Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The movement specialist developed all three calibres for Hermes’ latest novelties this year, reflecting a collaboration that has become central to the French house’s growing watchmaking ambitions.

Hermes has since strengthened that relationship. In April, it increased its stake in Vaucher from 25 to 40 per cent, deepening its ties with the Swiss movement specialist nearly two decades after its initial investment. The move underlines the house’s long-term commitment to watchmaking, a metier it entered in 1978. Hermes is also expanding its Le Noirmont manufacture in Switzerland, where it produces watch cases and dials.

Beyond Hermes, Vaucher supplies movements to some of the industry’s most respected names, including Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. It also co-developed one of Watches and Wonders’ biggest technical talking points this year: the high-frequency Calibre TH80-00 powering TAG Heuer’s Monaco Evergraph. The movement incorporates a compliant chronograph mechanism developed by the TAG Heuer LAB, using flexible components in place of conventional mechanical articulations to reduce friction and wear.

Taken together, the watches and investments point to a house playing the long game. At Watches and Wonders Geneva, CNA Luxury spoke with Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermes Horloger, about winning over Asia’s sophisticated collectors, building credibility in fine watchmaking and why the maison has little interest in following the industry’s established playbook.

With tariffs on Swiss watches, uncertainty in China and caution across the global market, how is Hermes navigating this period?

We do our best by balancing the weight of the markets and not relying too heavily on a single region. As the saying goes, don’t put all your eggs in one basket, so we look for balance across Asia, the Americas, Europe and the Middle East. Beyond that, our answer is simple – create watches that people genuinely want. 

In a volatile world like the one we’re in now, the best response is to keep introducing desirable novelties. At the same time, the way we present our watches has evolved. As we’ve moved further into high-end watchmaking, we’ve found that collectors want a more personal experience. Increasingly, we meet them one-on-one, taking the time to explain the mechanics, craftsmanship and what makes each watch uniquely Hermes.

At a time when some watch brands are scaling back amid market uncertainty, Hermes is expanding its Le Noirmont manufacture. What’s driving the decision?

It’s really about having a long-term vision. Whatever the short-term situation – and it’s certainly not an easy one – we believe the originality of Hermes is what makes us strong. As a family-owned company, we think in decades. We believe that over the next 30 years we’ll need this manufacture to support our growth, expand our capabilities and integrate more know-how. It’s not a short-term investment; it’s a long-term vote of confidence in Hermes’ watchmaking potential.

How does the Asian watch consumer differ from consumers in Europe or North America?

I don’t like to generalise by saying Asians are like this or Americans are like that. But if there’s one common thread across many Asian markets, it’s the search for authenticity. People today aren’t interested in storytelling for its own sake or clever marketing. They want to know that what they’re being told is genuine – something rooted in the brand and in the Hermes universe. They want to understand what makes us different, and once they do, they’re convinced. 

Of course, every market has its own nuances. Japan, Korea, China, Singapore and Australia all have different preferences – some favour smaller watches, others larger ones, but the common thread they share is that collectors are well informed. They do their research and read widely online, which means we have to be completely transparent in what we say and do.

How would you describe the Singapore market?

Singapore is an interesting market in that it has a mix of collectors – those drawn to design and style, and those seeking high-end mechanical watchmaking. The retailers there have also played a significant role in nurturing an appreciation for fine watchmaking, so collectors are exceptionally well informed. This means that we have to earn their trust. They don’t buy a watch simply because it says Hermes on the dial. They buy it because they genuinely love the watch.

What role does digital play in the buying journey for Hermes watches?

The Hermes boutique remains at the heart of the buying experience. Digital is really the window into the maison’s universe, but it’s rarely where the journey ends. Collectors today do a great deal of research online before stepping into a boutique. They want to understand the watch, compare models and learn about the technical details. But ultimately, for an object of this calibre, they need to experience it in the flesh – to appreciate the finishing, examine the dial up close and, most importantly, see how it sits on the wrist. Digital is an important part of the omnichannel journey, but it complements rather than replaces the boutique experience.

The Hermes H08 continues to evolve. What role does it play in the maison’s watchmaking portfolio?

Launched five years ago, the Hermes H08 has become our flagship mechanical collection. We’ve invested heavily in it because we see it as a pillar of Hermes watchmaking for many years to come. When you launch a new timepiece, you never know whether it’ll resonate with collectors. Fortunately, the watch found its audience. Now the challenge is to broaden the collection through new materials, complications and different expressions of the design.

It’s also brought a different customer to Hermes. Compared with our more classical collections, it appeals to a less traditional audience, which has allowed us to expand our reach without losing our identity.

Is the Hermes H08 Squelette your favourite watch of the year? You’re wearing one today.

Yes, it is. It strikes the right balance between technical achievement, skeletonisation, functionality and robustness. It’s a sports watch, so it has to withstand everyday knocks and shocks. That’s why we subjected the movement to stress tests simulating intensive daily sporting use, equivalent to 10 years of continuous wear. 

It’s not a race towards transparency or openness. It’s really about balancing transparency, durability and design. Philippe [Delhotal], Hermes Horloger’s creative director, wanted to evoke an urban landscape – a metallic scaffolding of sorts – and that’s reflected in the movement’s architecture. We’re especially proud because this is the first time we’re unveiling our latest-generation Hermes movement, made by Vaucher Manufacture, in a titanium case and skeletonised execution. It’s a milestone for us.

Younger collectors increasingly see watches as a form of self-expression rather than a status symbols. Does this play to the strengths of a design-led house like Hermes? 

Collectors today fall into two camps. Some look for the reassurance of established watchmaking maisons, while others are drawn to niche brands or up-and-coming independent houses with a distinctive point of view and strong sense of originality. Hermes belongs to the latter. We offer something different and singular through our designs, colours, complications and philosophy. I believe that more collectors will come to see Hermes as a genuinely original voice in watchmaking.

For us, education is key. Many collectors are knowledgeable about fine watchmaking, but they don’t yet know what Hermes has been creating over the years. Our ambition isn’t necessarily to become the industry’s leader, but to establish Hermes as one of the brands serious collectors naturally consider. The more innovative and exciting the watch industry becomes, the better it is for everyone. Healthy competition keeps mechanical watchmaking relevant and encourages us all to keep pushing further.

The greatest validation comes from meeting collectors around the world. I experienced this when I met members of a local watch club on my last visit to Singapore. They all told me the same thing: “We had no idea Hermes had been doing this for the past 15 years. What you’re creating is technically impressive, aesthetically original and unlike anything else.”

Not everyone will become customers immediately, but they’ll leave looking at Hermes in a different light. Some will eventually buy a watch, or even several over time, but simply hearing, “Well done!” is an encouraging sign that we’re becoming part of the conversation.

Hermes isn’t a traditional Swiss watchmaker. How would you define its place within the industry?

When Hermes Horloger was founded about 50 years ago, the CEO at the time said to the team: “Technically, we must match the very best. But beyond technique and quality, we should be as different as possible.” That philosophy still guides us today. Why create the same watches as everyone else? We have to bring fresh air to the industry.

We’re a French maison with Swiss watchmaking expertise. We’re not a traditional watchmaker nor are we fundamentally a jeweller or fashion house – we are a saddlery and leather goods house. Our unique heritage gives us a different perspective and that difference is an asset. When we express the Hermes universe through our watches, originality and desirability follow naturally.

What do you still want to achieve?

To go a little further. Our ambition is to continue building the reputation and desirability of Hermes timepieces. While the maison is renowned for its leather goods and silk, we would like our watchmaking to be recognised in the same way.

We still have a long road ahead of us. We must keep telling our story, encouraging people to take the time to discover what we’ve been creating over the years and to see Hermes not as a fashion house producing accessory watches, but a genuine watchmaker. We’re getting there and it’s paying off, but it takes time.

Source: CNA/bt

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