Changing business of bread: Why Singaporeans crave artisanal loaves but still mourn the loss of heritage bakeries
While modern palates crave new flavours, Singapore’s appetite for homegrown nostalgia in the form of old-school bakeries remains unchanged.
Bakers at Sweetlands Confectionery and Bakery. (Photo: Facebook/Sweetlands Bread and Bakery)
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SINGAPORE: When heritage bakeries and homegrown bread manufacturers close shop or move out of Singapore, it stirs up more than nostalgia as people love an “everyday staple” that comes fresh out of an oven, said food experts.
That is why whenever bread makes the news in Singapore, such as when homegrown breadmaker Gardenia decided to move its production line to Malaysia or when old-school bakery Tiong Bahru Galicier Pastry closed in 2022, consumers react strongly, they said.
Said Assistant Professor of sociology George Wong at Singapore Management University: “If olfactory, visual and gustatory cues help us relate to memories and community, then the decline of these places like bakeries also signal not just a loss, but also as an irrecoverable dissipation of the familiar sensibilities of past communities.”
Bread is, after all, a cultural symbol and a reflection of a changing Singapore, which originated from British colonial palates and was gradually influenced by Asian tastebuds, said experts.
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From the once familiar sight of cream-filled buns sold by “roti men” on bicycles to the artisanal sourdough loaves sold in shopping malls, they said the evolution of what people are eating and where they are buying from mirror how lifestyles, cultures and preferences have changed over the years.
Associate Professor of the School of Business at the Singapore University of Social Sciences (SUSS) Dianna Chang said bread is entrenched in Singaporeans’ daily routines.
“Bread offers an interesting lens through which to understand Singaporean society,” said Assoc Prof Chang.
“As an everyday staple for many individuals and families, bread occupies a unique place in daily life. Its relatively short shelf life necessitates frequent purchases, making it naturally integrated into consumers’ lifestyles and shopping habits.”
To track Singapore’s love affair with bread, CNA spoke to several breadmakers and experts to see how and why the simple act of buying a loaf has transformed from a matter of convenience into a reflection of Singapore’s socio-economic identity.
EVOLUTION OF BREAD
When Hainanese immigrants from China arrived in Singapore during the 19th century, they often worked as cooks on British ships, in colonial households and in European-run hotels.
There, they learnt Western cooking and baking techniques and adapted the traditional British breakfast to local tastes, creating new products such as kaya toast.
Professor William Chen, director of the food science and technology programme at Nanyang Technological University, said: “The introduction of bread into Singapore’s diet during British colonial times has evolved over time and has become an essential part of our multi-ethnic cuisines, and to a certain extent an iconic part of our Singapore’s identity.”
11:01 Min From Hainanese loaves to Malay sweets and a beloved banana pie, Singapore’s heritage bakeries and kitchens keep everyday traditions alive, shaping familiar flavours that continue to connect food and culture.
Some Hainanese entrepreneurs also ventured into the bakery and confectionery trade, such as Sweetlands Confectionery and Bakery at Kim Keat.
Established in the 1960s, the bakery continues to make its breads using traditional recipes and methods.
Owner Nick Tan, who took over the business in 2020, said around 40 per cent of the production process remains manual despite some automation.
Mr Tan believes the manual work helps preserve the flavour and quality customers expect.
“By hand is always better. If you look at Japanese pastries and products, mochi is hand pounded as there’s some artisanal quality in that. Certain things by hand is more precise.”
Traditional bakeries remained popular in the 70s – there were around 200 of such breadmakers at the time, according to the National Library Board’s website.
By the 1960s and 1970s, however, Singapore’s bread industry entered a new phase.
Soon, large-scale commercial bakeries began to transform the way bread was produced, distributed and eaten.
Bread became more widely available through supermarkets, provision shops and convenience stores, offering consumers greater convenience and consistency.
NTU’s Prof Chen said that as part of urbanisation and industrialisation, most Singaporeans have moved into housing estates and spend more time at work.
“These may lead to a shift towards convenience-oriented foods, and supermarket bread and large bakery chains have emerged to fulfil this demand.”
This was when the pioneers of convenient packaged breads, such as Gardenia and Sunshine Bakeries, began to flourish because of their mass distribution models, low prices and consistent quality.
Originally, these brands were operated as traditional bakeries too.
In the case of Sunshine, it operated out of a Geylang shophouse in 1930 before expanding commercially to become one of Singapore’s largest bread manufacturers.
Its rival, Gardenia, emerged as another strong player that expanded from its humble beginnings. The brand started off as a small in-store bakery at Bukit Timah Plaza in 1978.
When the industrialisation of bread production swung around in the early 1990s, both brands naturally became the face of large-scale bread manufacturing.
Gardenia opened its commercial bread production line at Pandan Loop in 1983, then later opening a second one. Meanwhile, Sunshine relocated its manufacturing operations to a new facility in Senoko in 1992, a site it has since vacated.
At the same time, consumers also sought out another way to satisfy their bread cravings.
From the 1980s, bakery chains that offered consumers a far wider range of breads, buns and pastries than regular sliced bread started popping up across housing estates and shopping malls.
Among the pioneers was PrimaDeli, which was established in 1992.
According to its website, it is Singapore’s first home-grown halal bakery franchise and the country’s longest-running food franchise.
Other players soon followed. BreadTalk introduced a new retail concept when it opened its first outlet at Bugis Junction in 2000.
Its “bread boutique” model featured open kitchens and creatively branded products.
Unlike traditional bakeries which typically stuck to tried and tested recipes, these chains gave consumers a wide-ranging choice of novel flavours that came with strong brand marketing backing up the products.
BreadTalk, for example, would become renowned for its meat floss buns, while PrimaDeli was known for its various takes on chiffon cakes.
SUSS’ Assoc Prof Chang said that as Singapore continues to develop economically, consumers increasingly seek a higher quality of life, with good food playing an important role in overall well-being.
“Despite demanding schedules, many consumers are willing to sacrifice convenience and pay premium prices for products they perceive as superior in quality.”
ARTISANAL EURO BREADS BURST INTO SCENE
In recent years, the bakery scene would undergo one more evolution to satisfy consumers’ wants: artisanal bakeries that specialise in higher-quality, small-production loaves influenced by European baking methods.
The growing popularity of artisanal bread, particularly among younger consumers, shows a willingness to pay more for products that are deemed fresher, less processed and made with good quality ingredients.
For instance, a loaf of artisanal sourdough bread can cost up to S$20 (US$15.50), or even more.
“Good consumption is becoming a valuable indicator of cultural identity and social status. It reflects cultural identity, economic status, and societal norms,” said NTU’s Prof Chen.
At Konditori Artisan Bakes and Pastries, pastries with local flavours such as the beef satay croissant and jalapeno bagel have proven popular with customers.
At the same time, customers still enjoy more classic offerings such as the chocolate croissant or an orange peel brioche, said assistant bakery manager Ms Izzah.
When asked how customers have dealt with the rise in prices of pastries from the bakery over the last decade, Ms Izzah said that she believes customers are willing to pay the extra money for a quality product that is “visually appealing” with “taste on an equal level”.
Despite the rise in costs of manpower and ingredients, the bakery has also tried to stick to original recipes for its longstanding offerings and not cut corners with newer creations.
“Our customers have been coming for many years, so they can tell if there’s even been a hint of a change. But for the majority of the time, we keep to the same ingredients that we have.”
These bakeries have become increasingly popular as consumers seek quality, authenticity and unique experiences, said NTU’s Prof Chen.
“They are supporting artisanal bread which incorporates local ingredients, healthy and less processed nature, personalised flavours, food waste reduction, small-scale production for the uniqueness in personal experience.”
Prof Chen also noted that social media and cafe culture have played a significant role in shaping consumers’ food preferences and influencing the types of bread they choose to try.
His comments were echoed by SUSS’ Assoc Prof Chang, who said social media has helped democratise the marketplace by providing smaller and independent bakeries with opportunities to compete against larger chains.
“The growing popularity of artisan bread reflects consumers’ pursuit of quality, individuality, and distinctive experiences, while also demonstrating the influence of social media on contemporary consumption patterns.”
TRADITIONAL BAKERIES STILL RELEVANT
While bread has undergone significant changes over the decades, experts said consumer demand for healthier, more innovative and higher-quality products is likely to continue shaping the industry in the years ahead.
Despite the popularity of modern breadmaking, traditional bakeries continue to hold cultural significance.
SMU’s Asst Prof Wong said Singapore will continue to gather influence from reputable baking cultures such as those from France, Germany, Japan and the Mediterranean.
“At the same time, Singapore’s Hainanese loaf has become so intrinsically tied to our local cultures, and with the help of commercial successes of brands such as BreadTalk and Ya Kun globally, it has become a big part of our own popular cultural heritage claim.”
Nevertheless, Sweetlands Confectionery and Bakery’s Mr Tan said although the bakery still sees a steady stream of retail customers, footfall has declined over the years.
He acknowledged the challenge of attracting younger consumers, many of whom prefer the modern takes on bread.
Mr Tan hopes that growing interest in heritage businesses, coupled with government efforts to preserve local culture and traditions, will help keep traditional bakeries relevant to younger generations.
“The worry would be attracting the younger generation to enjoy our bread or love our bread. Everyone is gravitating towards artisanal bread right now. For us, we need to find a twist. Something to attract them … to attract the younger generation to buy this.”
Jie Bakery owner Jimmy Mah shared similar concerns.
The traditional bakery produces up to 1,000 loaves daily, with about 40 per cent of work still done by hand.
Mr Mah said greater automation could alter the texture and taste of traditional breads, adding that consistency is crucial to maintaining customer loyalty.
“Traditional means that the taste must be the same. If you use machine, the texture and taste will not be the same.”
Food experts said these older businesses still have a trump card that the modern European-styled bakeries lack: the fact that Singaporeans place value on nostalgia.
SUSS’ Assoc Prof Chang said nostalgia has become increasingly important among younger consumers seeking a sense of belonging and connection to local heritage.
“Traditional bakeries often evoke such feelings. The familiarity of long-established businesses provides comfort and reinforces personal and cultural identities.”
Should traditional bakeries and other heritage businesses decline, it could also signal the gradual erosion of history and culture, said Assoc Prof Chang.
“Culture is often embedded within an entire system that includes how products are made, who makes them, where they are produced, and how they are sold. When traditional bakeries disappear, elements of this cultural package may also be lost.”
Asst Prof Wong also noted that manpower, rising costs and the lack of interest among Singaporeans to join the food and beverage industry will continue to be a challenge for production.
“This is where it is most worrying, as it can mean that we may very well lose certain parts of our local bread heritage and cultures, in spite of continued strong appetite for bread in Singapore,” he said.
Source: CNA/cj(nj)
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