Beyond Amsterdam and Venice: 6 delightful European canal cities
From culture in Hamburg to sweet confections in Aveiro, the charms of these places are revealed as you drift down uncrowded waterways.
The “Petite France” neighborhood in Strasbourg. (Photo: The New York Times/Clara Tuma)
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The grandeur of Amsterdam’s canals dates back to the 17th century. By that time, the canals of Venice had been a fixture for centuries.
Today, the Venetian gondolas and the Dutch canalboats mostly carry tourists — tens of millions of them a year. Both cities have long battled overtourism. But Amsterdam and Venice are far from the only European cities with canals.
Here are six other stunning canal cities to consider.
THE NETHERLANDS
Haarlem

Hop on the train in Amsterdam, and in just 20 minutes you’ll arrive in Haarlem, the small Dutch city that could pass for a miniature version of the country’s capital.
You’ll recognise many characteristic elements: a network of canals to cruise, surrounding 17th-century houses to marvel at, museums filled with Dutch masters. If not for the lack of crowds, you might think you were in Amsterdam.
Browse the small boutiques in the Gouden Straatjes district, and roam the quaint secluded courtyards scattered around town. Or visit the Frans Hals Museum, which has the largest collection of the painter’s works.
But like so many Dutch cities, Haarlem is best explored from the water — drifting past a historical windmill and the Amsterdamse Poort, an old city gate.
BELGIUM
Ghent

People are often too busy flocking to Bruges to experience Ghent’s charm. The historical city, along the Scheldt River and a tributary, the Leie, is compact and mostly car-free, making it eminently walkable. Wander through about 1,400 years of history by visiting the Gravensteen, a medieval castle, along with the city’s three beguinages — quiet courtyards once inhabited by women who devoted themselves to their faith without taking monastic vows.
For a city as historic as Ghent, it’s also remarkably modern: It’s a pioneer of street art and offers a fantastic array of vintage shops.
PORTUGAL
Aveiro

For many travellers, the Portuguese fishing city of Aveiro offers a touch or two of Venice.
For starters, the canals run through the city centre. And although the boats might resemble Venetian gondolas, these are moliceiros — bright, colourful vessels once used to harvest seaweed that, today, can take you on a tour instead.
But the similarities mostly end there. In this beautiful port city, you’re surrounded by stunning Art Nouveau architecture, with its curved lines, decorative facades and azulejos, the traditional Portuguese tiles, which adorn the train station.
Peruse the fish market in the heart of town to glimpse the catch of the day. Or spend a sunny afternoon at Praia da Costa Nova, a nearby beach town lined with colourful, striped cottages. Wherever you end up, make sure to indulge in the local delicacy called “ovos moles” — sweet, sticky confections made of egg yolks and sugar.
GERMANY
Hamburg

Water, water, everywhere: With the Elbe River, the Alster tributary and a network of canals, Germany’s second-largest city offers a tangle of waterways. It’s also a rich cultural hub.
Take the Elbphilharmonie, a landmark concert hall, which, with its sinuous curves, seems to flow right along the river. It will celebrate its 10th anniversary in January. Or take Hamburg’s warehouse district, the Speicherstadt, once a global trade hub and now part of a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Cruise the water with a guided harbour boat trip, or opt for a more low-key experience by hopping on Ferry No. 62, which will take you to the most popular waterfront sights in 30 minutes. Back on land, visit the city’s imposing City Hall, or peruse over 700 years of European art history at the Kunsthalle.
FRANCE
Strasbourg

Having been tossed back and forth between Germany and France throughout its history, Strasbourg has a dizzyingly mixed heritage. Its heart is the cobblestoned Grande Ile, sandwiched between two branches of the Ill River and built around the Strasbourg Cathedral, a medieval triumph of Gothic architecture.
But venture a little farther west, and you’ll land right in Petite France, a district so picturesque you wouldn’t be surprised to find a trail of bread crumbs at your feet. Admire the half-timbered 16th- and 17th-century houses and the winding waterways — not actually canals, but different arms of the Ill.
ITALY
Livorno

Tuscany is consistently among the top tourist destinations in Italy. And why wouldn’t it be? The rugged hills, the Renaissance architecture, the Michelangelos, all washed down with plenty of Chianti. And yet the seaside city of Livorno is comparatively overlooked, despite being only about 80 minutes from Florence by train.
Explore the city’s seaside promenade, the Terrazza Mascagni, with its distinctive black-and-white terrace. Ride a historical funicular up to the Sanctuary of Montenero for its panoramic views. And enjoy the multicultural city with its long history of progressive politics — where, in the 1920s, the city’s working-class neighbourhoods became hubs of resistance against rising Fascism.
By Noelle de Leeuw © The New York Times.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
Source: New York Times/bt
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